Nagatcho/Akasaka Superguide

Name: Nagatcho + Akasaka

Kind: Town/City

Location: 35°40’33.86″ N 139°44’36.21″ E

Stations: Nagatcho, Tameike-sanno Station, Akasaka-mitsuke Station, Yurakucho, Hanzomon, Namboku, Ginza Lines

Free Wifi: Yes

Our Rating: ⭑⭑⭑⭑⭑

Worth it? A must-see, and as a gateway to Akasaka.

Updated 8/27/2021

©2019-2021 tenmintokyo.com

Nagatcho is a small area where the central gov’t in Japan is located. The Federal Diet Bldg. is here, as are assembly offices, and a the Prime Minister’s Office. Most activity in the area is centered around government work, but there is still a lot to see and do here.

Nagatcho is also the eastern gateway to a much more interesting area: Akasaka. We won’t go into Akasaka too much here, but we’ll touch on how to get there and a few interesting tidbits.

Access

Being where the central gov’t is located, there are a lot of ways into Nagatcho: you can take one of the Subway Metro lines listed above, you can cycle, or you can walk. Nagatcho is just to the west of the Imperial Palace + Diet Bldg. and there is a nice sidewalk which runs the length of the palace’s moat (Chidorigafuchi) on the western side (known as the Hanzomon area (due to Hanzomon Gate which dates back centuries and protects the western side of the palace).

Subway lines include Yurakucho, Hanzomon, Namboku, and Ginza Lines. There are lots of station portals at the street level scattered all over the area, but the 3 most important ones are the Akasaka-mitsuke Station on Sotobori Dori around 35°40’34.24″ N 139°44’17.11″ E , Nagatacho Station (just up the street to the north), and the Tameike-sanno Station portal on a side street just behind the Prime Minister’s office. For Tameike-sanno Station, take only the Ginza or Namboku Lines. 2 other notable street-level portals are in the Sanno Park Tower, and in the basement of the Bic Camera store just to the northwest.

In short if you want to see the Diet area, hit the Tameike-sanno Station exit and walk up the street, if you want to see Sotoboto Dori Ave, the Bic Camera, or Akasaka, hit the Akasaka-mitsuke Station exits, or if you want to get to the north side go for any of the north Nagatacho Station exits. Also of particular note is Tokyo Garden Terrace to the north around 35°40’46.30″ N 139°44’13.85″ E, just west down the street from one of the Nagatacho Station exits. Around Christmas/New Year’s Tokyo Garden Terrace is a must-see (we’ll discuss this more below).

There is also an additional station just on the south side of the complex: Kokkai-gijidomae Station (Stop 07 on the Chiyoda Line, or stop 14 on the Marunouchi Line).

Nagatcho + Akasaka sit to the north of Toranomon, east of Roppongi, west of Imperial Palace, and south of Yotsuya.

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Underground in a Nagatcho Station exit. Some subway stations in Japan have a decidedly Soviet feel to them.

An Akasaka-mitsuke Station portal on Sotoboto Dori, just west of the Diet Bldg.

Tameike-sanno Station portal, left. The Prime Minister’s Office can just barely be seen above the trees.

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Tameike-sanno Station portal in the basement of the fabulous Capitol Hotel Tokyu.

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Prime Minister’s Office viewed from Sotoboto Dori Ave. facing northeast.

Area Layout

Tameike-Sannō Station, and Prime Minister’s office, lower center. To the left out of frame is Akasaka and Sotoboto Dori Ave. the tall bldg. on the left is the Capitol Hotel Tokyu. On the far right are 3 Federal assembly offices. The smaller bldg. in the center is the APA Pride Hotel. This view is facing north. To the lower left out of frame is Sanno Park Tower. Akasaka-mitsuke Station is also out of frame just to the upper left corner.

Nagatcho is a fairly small area. There’s the central gov’t/Diet area, a small area north of that with various gov’t bldgs. and museums, a smaller area east just across from the Imperial Palace, and the area south of the central gov’t which rolls into Akasaka. Not much else, but the area is still interesting. A stroll or bike ride around the central area is interesting, and in the fall spectacular. There are also smaller various shrines (See below), historical points of interest and other things to do. When you’re done exploring the central gov’t area, head north to see Tokyo Garden Terrace Koicho (also see below), and then southwest to see Akasaka and all it has to offer.

If you want to see the Diet area, pop up out of Tameike-sanno Station which puts you just west of it. Akasaka proper is just 2 blocks west. Both the Prime Minister’s Office and Official Residence are on this street. Turn left (east) up a side street for the Diet bldg. One can spend hours just strolling up and down streets in the area.

Parliamentary Museum

A must-see area is just out front of the Diet to the west. There are 3 major attractions here: Kensei Memorial Park, a small historical park to the north of that, and further north, the Parliamentary Museum. Kensei Memorial Park has a very nice garden worth a stroll. The main road between the Diet and the palace is Uchibori Dori and is popular with joggers and walkers. In fact, you can circumnavigate the palace 360 degrees around over into Otemachi, Hibiya, and back. The entire distance is spectacular and one of the best walks in Tokyo.

Kasumigaseki

Just to the southeast of Kensei Memorial Park is Kasumigaseki, where more gov’t bldgs. are located – including the HQ for the Japan Ministry of Foreign Affairs. There is also a Metro station at Kasumigaseki.

Hibiya Park

Just south of Kasumigaseki is the must-see Hibiya Park. This lush well-kept park is huge with lots to see + do. Not bad for just 1 more block’s walk. Definitely hit it. There is also a very nice German Christmas Market held here every December.

Sanno Park Tower + NTT DoCoMo HQ

Just to the south of Tameike-sanno Station 2 blocks on the corner of Sotoboto Dori Ave. is a giant skyscraper called Sanno Park Tower. There’s lots to do here. The basement has all kinds of shops + a convenience store. Sanno Park Tower is also home to Japan’s mobile phone company NTT DoCoMo. There are also cafés in the bldg. Just for kicks, you can have a brief thrill riding the massive gleaming glass corporate elevators from the lobby to the top floor. But be warned all floors including the top floor have lots of security guards, and you will not be admitted for any reason without a badge officially obtained in advance. Still, the elevator ride itself is a thrill – the huge glass elevators fly upward at incredible speed, while you watch the ground drop out from under you and their inner workings of cables + huge flywheels spin as you look on. And then in the blink of an eye you’ve been flung 50 stories skyward. Fun – if just for a few moments.

日本 Sanno Park Tower

The massive glass elevators inside Sanno Park Tower – as close as you can get to an amusement park ride inside Corporate Japan.

There are a few photos of the inside of the bldg. over at Mitsubishi Estate.

Sanno Park Tower, left looking northeast on Sotobori Dori Ave. Tameike-sanno Station is just up this side street on the right. The Prime Minister’s Office is also just up this street to the right. Capitol Hotel Tokyu and APA Pride hotels are also up this street to the left. Just behind the small red van is a small round glass portal with an elevator inside which takes you down to shop level.

Turning right (north) at the intersection of Sotoboto Dori shoots you up to the Bic Camera, past Akasaka-mitsuke Station, and up to Tokyo Garden Terrace Koicho, which we discuss next.

Tokyo Garden Terrace Koicho

If you exit the Nagatcho Sta exit around 35°40’44.55″ N 139°44’25.63″ E and head just a few blocks west downhill, you’ll come to a major intersection on Sotoboto Dori with a river + Benkei Bridge and a huge office bldg. just to the north. One of the area’s best hidden gems is at the base of this bldg: Tokyo Garden Terrace Koicho.

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Tokyo Garden Terrace Koicho. The Prince Gallery Tokyo Kioicho is an ultra-deluxe ⭑⭑⭑⭑⭑ hotel.

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Christmas lights display @ Tokyo Garden Terrace Koicho

Also behind Tokyo Garden Terrace Koicho is Akasaka Prince Classic House – a vintage wedding + meeting hall.

Hotels

Hotel choices in the area are endless. The aforementioned Capitol Hotel Tokyu is luxury beyond belief, but it will cost you $400+/night. Clearly the best value in the area is the APA Pride Hotel – which is is very deluxe + clean and in an off-peak time will cost you only around $70/night – unimagineable in the west. It’s right next to Capitol Hotel Tokyu. A definite winner. Hotel Monterey Hanzomon is also very nice, but a bit more expensive + little further north.

If you’re looking for a good capsule, lots of them abound in the area, but a really nice one is First Cabin Akasaka just to the west. There are lots of other hostel + capsule type hotels in the area.

The really cool hotel area is on the hidden small side street just behind the Bic Camera to the north. There are endless hotels here including Centurion Hotel, Granbell Hotel Akasaka, and Kitano Hotel Tokyo. The entrance to this hidden side street is around 35°40’35.15″ N 139°44’12.46″ E. Just across the street from that to the west is the Tokyu Plaza Akasaka Hotel – a huge hotel right at the north end of Akasaka. This is also a mixed-use development with lots of restaurants + shops and a mall. There is also a Metro subway portal just at the entrance to the hidden side street.

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Inside our little room @ APA Pride Hotel – which included this small desk. Don’t mind all the food + loot – we had just made a massive cheap food haul from Don Quijote Ginza when this photo was taken. Incredibly, this room was only $70/night.

APA Pride room. Small but very nice, clean, and somewhat upscale.

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Capitol Hotel Tokyu lobby.

Co-working Spaces

The area has lots of great co-working spaces at reasonable rates – most notably a very nice Regus space at Akasaka K Tower.

Just next to the Nagatcho Sta exit around 35°40’44.55″ N 139°44’25.63″ E is a great PMO shared office space. In fact it’s right next to the station exit.

Another very nice cowork space is GRID Nagatcho, which incredibly, is in the same block as PMO..

Hie Shrine

Smack behind the APA Pride Hotel to the west up on a big hill is Hie Shrine. You can exit the rear of APA Pride + climb the steps to reach the top. On the other side is a massive granite staircase which leads down to Sotoboto Dori Ave. and into Akasaka. The view from the top of the stairs allows you to look to the west, over a massive white Tori Gate, and into Akasaka. From here you can also see the TBS Broadcasting HQ a block away.

View from Hie Shrine facing west into Akasaka. Sotobori Dori Ave. is below. Straight ahead is Akasaka. The bldg. with the round section on top is the TBS HQ. There is also a small Japan Post Office just ahead on the left. On the 1st floor of the orange bldg. is a very nice FamilyMart conbini (convenience store). 1 block ahead on the right is a Tully’s Coffee, and beyond that Akasaka SACAS + Akasaka Biz Tower (shown in vids below). Since Akasaka is just a stone’s throw from Nagatcho, it’s a must-see in the area. Also down this street just on the right is a huge First Cabin Akasaka capsule hotel. There are all kinds of restaurants and shops on this street + backstreets to the right.

First Cabin Akasaka

Sanno Matsuri

Sanno Matsuri is a traditional Japanese festival held every other year which starts at Hie Shrine and ends later in the afternoon. If you’re in the area when it happens (usually in summer), it’s worth a look.

Dive Into Akasaka

To the west beyond Nagatcho is Akasaka proper. There are 2 main areas to see here: the Akasaka SACAS/Biz Tower area (and the Biz Tower Attrium mall next to it), and the myriad hidden side streets just to the northeast of that. There are some fabulous photos of the area over at Konnichiwa | My excellent Japanese adventure. JNTO also has a great page in English describing the area. The Akasaka SACAS area consists of: Akasaka SACAS, Biz Tower, Biz Tower Attrium, a Merto entrance, and several shops/restuarants across the street. There is also a concert hall called BLITZ to the north of Biz Tower Attrium. In the winter BLITZ has an outdoor ice-skating rink. The TBS broadcasting HQ is also in the area. BLITZ is owned + operated by TBS. A Tully’s is also located across the street:

Tully’s across the street from Akasaka SACAS/Biz Tower facing north. Nagatcho is to the right (east). The large First Cabin Akasaka hotel is the white bldg. on the right. The hidden side street area is just behind this block. 2 blocks down on the right is the large FamilyMart, and there are all sorts of other great restaurants + shops on this street to the right. Don’t be afraid to wander down side streets to find unexpected enjoyment.

Akasaka’s Hidden Gem: The Hidden Side Street

Starting at around 35°40’37.79″ N 139°44’13.16″ E to the north, and running north-south is a long hidden side street behind the Bic Camera bldg. At night, this street is actually the livliest street in the area and is a must-see. At night this street comes alive with light, sound, smells, restaurants, shops, clubs, and bars. You can spend an entire evening here and not even scratch the surface. In addition there are several smaller adjacent side streets to explore. If you go to Nagatcho/Akasaka, absolutely do not miss this street. Photos are shown in the Additional Photos section below.

Biz Tower lobby.

Okamura Chair Museum

One last little bit of madness: just north of Akasaka-mitsuke Station is the Okamura Chair Museum. This place is a museum for office chairs + car seats. Turns out this company has been making OTT office chairs for decades in Japan and also supplying Japan’s major auto manufacturers with auto seats for decades also. A crazy quick stop if you’re in the area. Just walk in off the street. The company is still in business and some of their office furniture is absolutely amazing. “muffle creates the right balance. For both concentration and collaboration space

If you head up west from the Akasaka SACAS corner where the Tully’s coffee is, you’ll find the street extends west with more interesting shops + restuarants. Finally at the end you’ll come to a tunnel which leads out of the area:

Conclusion + Footnotes

Well, that’s it for now. Nagatcho/Akasuka is one of the most exciting up-and-coming areas in Tokyo – a must see. As another footnote, just to the south is also the very nice Toranomon area – it’s close enough most people could walk to it. It’s definitely worth a trip. See our 2-part post on Toranomon.

Baton-wielding Police

You’ll also see lots of baton-wielding police in the area (shown in the 1st image at the top of this page), due to the critical nature of the central gov’t. If you’re behaving however, and not causing any trouble, they will generally leave you alone. If you get too rowdy, especially inside gov’t bldgs., they may very well arrest you + throw you in prison. And you do not want to ever end up in a Japanese prison because in Japan, guilt is assumed. It’s not the same as the US. If you do end up in one, a forced confession is likely (even if you are innocent), and if you are a foreigner, you will mostly likely serve some time, and then be deported and banned from ever entering the country again. If the police do approach you and ask to see your passport or alien registration card, be ready to provide it in an instant. By law, foreigners are required to carry their passport/registration card on them at all times, so be prepared. Don’t risk a prison term in Japan due to sheer neglect or bad behavior. It’s just not worth it. Always remember you’re a guest in someone else’s country. Respect them.

One more note about the Nagatcho/Akasaka area is because it’s the national central gov’t area, nearly everything in the area except the hidden side street shuts down early at night. So be prepared to not have access to certain things after around 9 PM. Trains however, continue to operate until 11-12 PM.

Enjoy!

Additional Photos

Overall master view. North is to the top. To the upper right is Imperial Palace, with the Diet + offices center right, left into central Nagatcho, then south + left into Akasaka. Notable buildings are the TBS HQ in the far lower left corner, Akasaka Biz Tower to the upper-right of that, Sanno Park Tower is the huge bldg. lower right center, and the large grey bldg. is Tokyu Garden Terrace just left of center at the top of the frame. If you continue along the major road shown at the top of the photo up to the northwest, you’ll pass the Imperial State House (which offers tours normally), and then into Yotsuya. If you turn left (west) at the main Yotsuya intersection, after a long way you’ll reach Shinjuku. Hibiya is just out of frame to the lower right. The small square bldg. with the blue square on the roof to the right of Sanno Park Tower is the Official Prime Minister’s Residence. APA Pride and Capitol Hotel Tokyu are hidden from view behind Sanno Park Tower. Just to the upper-left of Sanno Park Tower is Hie Shrine. Sotobori Dori Ave. is the main road running north-south. Just out of view to the southeast is Toranomon, and beyond that to the south Shimbashi. To the left out of frame about a mile is Roppongi.

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Looking back north at the Diet Bldg. approaching from Toranomon to the south.

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Bic Camera on Sotobori Dori. (In Japan it’s pronounced “Bee-ka Ca-mé-da” by locals).

.belleVie shopping complex, including Bic Camera. A subway portal is just down the stairs to the right. If you pass straight through to the other side, you’ll be on the hidden side street. Make a left. You’ll come out near the entrance to the hidden side street just down on the right here:

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Entrance to the hidden side street facing south. At night this street comes alive with restaurants, shops, clubs, and hotels. The .belleVie shopping complex is the large bldg. on the left. This street is probably the #1 attraction to see in the Nagatcho/Akasaka area at night. If you walk this street a few blocks and turn right, you’ll come to the Akasaka SACAS area. 90 degrees to the left out of view is the Tokyu Plaza Akasaka Hotel:

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©2019 tenmintokyo.com

Between Tokyu Plaza Akasaka Hotel and the entrance to the hidden side street is this plaque which details how all the local areas got their names. English is included at the bottom. Tokyu Plaza Akasaka Hotel is the bldg. in the background.

Turn to your left 180 degrees from the entrance to the hidden side street, and you’ll see Tokyo Garden Terrace Koicho (the tall bldg.) just to your left only 2 blocks away. Tokyu Plaza Akasaka Hotel is the large white bldg. on the right. There’s another portal to Akasaka-mitsuke Station shown in the center. The plaque shown in the previous photo is just out of view to the right.

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Nagatacho Station on the Hanzomon Line platform (which is color-coded purple).

TBS HQ. BLITZ is just behind it.

Heading west up the street across from Hie Shrine, which leads to the next corner shown in the next photo below. You can also hang a right here before the corner at the brick alley to get to the hidden side street heading north.

The view on the corner with the Tully’s facing west. Akasaka SACAS/Biz Tower are just ahead as shown in the photo below:

Akasaka SACAS/Biz Tower. A Metro portal is the small box on the right next to the lighted signs. Biz Tower is on the right, and beyond the lights on the left is the Biz Tower Atrium complex – and beyond that, BLITZ. You can also head right here down the street the Tully’s is on instead for more discovery:

There is a restaurant/bar just to the right called SMT. If you continue down the street north of that you’ll see:

There is also another small APA Hotel on this street as well. The hidden side street runs one block parallel to the right (east).

Looking back east from the Akasaka SACAS/Biz Tower area towards the Tully’s. There are more streets to the right (south) to explore as well.

Another view of Biz Tower Atrium.

The BLITZ complex.

The view of west Nagatcho facing north from the pedestrian bridge next to the entrance to the hidden side street. Tokyo Garden Terrace Koicho is at the base of the tall bldg. on the right. A Nagatcho Station Metro entrance is just up the hill to the east (right).

Looking back south 180 degrees from the photo above. The hidden side street is just to the right of the small black bldg. right of center. A Metro portal is just in front of that. The main gov’t area is off to the left a few blocks, Sotobori Dori is the street on the left with the cars on it.

Centurion Hotel on the hidden side street.

The hidden side street heading south – a must see. Itamae Sushi on the right is very popular. Down on the left a bit is a good jazz club.

Palaceside bldg. back in Otemachi on the east side. Turn right here for Tokyo Dome City and Ueno.

Additional Photos

The station exit at the small Metro portal in Nagatcho on the north side. Very Soviet-feeling.

Facing west from the north end of Akasaka. If you take this road northwest you’ll pass the Imperial Statehouse and come to Yotsuya. If you turn left @ Yotsuya, it will take you to Shinjuku several miles down. if you turn right here, you’ll see:

Also in Yotsuya is Sophia University.

LINKS

Tameike-Sannō Station

Tameike-sanno Station

Tameike-Sannō Station – Minato, Tokyo – Japan Travel

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tameike-Sann%C5%8D_Station

Kokkai-gijidomae Station

Nagatacho – Tokyo Travel Guide

Nagatacho | JapanVisitor Japan Travel Guide

Tameike Sanno

Sanno Park Tower – Wikipedia

Akasaka, Tokyo – Wikipedia

Akasaka-mitsuke Station

Akasaka-mitsuke Station Map – Minato, Tokyo – Mapcarta

Akasaka Mitsuke

Akasaka Guide | JapanVisitor Japan Travel Guide

Akasaka Tameike Tower

National Diet Tour | Things to do in Nagatacho

TOKYO GARDEN TERRACE

Tokyo Garden Terrace Kioicho | Things to do in Kioicho

https://akasakaprince.com/en/

Parlimentary Museum of Japan

Hibiya Park

Hie Shrine – Wikipedia

Nagatacho, Ark Hills and the Hie Shrine

https://www.japan.travel/en/spot/1737/

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g1066443-d12074421-Reviews-Benkei_Bridge-Chiyoda_Tokyo_Tokyo_Prefecture_Kanto.html

hanzomon gate Archives – JAPAN THIS!

All Eyes On Akasaka

https://www.mai-b.co.jp/index-en.html

Hotels

APA Pride

Hotel New Otani Landscape Garden: an oasis of peace in Akasaka – and it’s free!

The B Tokyo Akasaka-Mitsuke – Guest Reservations

https://akasaka.tokyu-plaza.com/en/

TOKYU PLAZA TOTSUKA

The Capitol Hotel Tokyu

https://en.japantravel.com/tokyo/the-capitol-hotel-tokyu-nagatacho/36416

Hotel Monterey Hanzomon

https://www.granbellhotel.jp/en/akasaka/

https://akasaka.tokyu-plaza.com/en/

New Sanno Hotel

Food

Tully’s Coffee Akasaka

THE PUBLIC RED AKASAKA

Office

https://www.regus.com/en-us/japan/tokyo/akasaka-k-tower-3932

PMO

GRID Nagatcho

https://www.okamura.com/en_mea/products/categories/seating/

Gov

Prime Minister of Japan and His Cabinet

PM’s Office of Japan (@JPN_PMO)

MOFA

Film

https://archive.org/details/GhostStoryOfYotsuya

VIDS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dS_-1IBfpE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxCctnEoH-g

Return to Itabashi: An 18-year journey PART 1

©2019 tenmintokyo.com

Name: Itabashi

Kind: Town

Location: 35°44’45.85″ N 139°43’03.77″ E

Our Rating: ⭑⭑⭑⭑

Worth it? Yep.

Updated 6/28/2020

Page may take a while to load due to photos.

Also see Part 2, Part 3.

My return to the first small town I stayed at in Japan 18 years ago – Itabashi in northwest Tokyo.

The name Itabashi literally means plankbridge.

Itabashi is part of a larger northwestern area of Tokyo called Toshima City.

In 2001, on my first trip to Japan, right off the airplane, I landed in the charming small town of Itabashi. I was excited. Everything in Japan was new to me then, and I was thrilled to be there.

Purely by accident I discovered a great Japanese hotel chain APA Hotels, which has a hotel in Itabashi, right next to the JR Itabashi train station. APA stands for “Always Pleasant Amenities” and they mean it. APA’s are usually cheap, very clean + have soundproof windows. The APA Itabashi hotel off season is an low $65/night – which is what you would pay for a Motel 6 in the US, but APAs are much much better.

The rooms have a fridge, HDTV, power, charging sockets, and nice bathrooms. Well worth the $. There’s also a nice cafe, vending machine, and ice machine (which the Japanese call Ice Engines).

In 2019, I returned to Itabashi, 18 years after my initial sojurn, and stayed just 3 doors down from the room I stayed in during 2001.

This post is a memory of that journey, and about my new adventure in Itabashi in 2019.

The 2001 Photos + Trip

In 2001 digital cameras were still a new thing. All the photos in this section were taken on an Apple QuickTake 200 – which at the time was a hot camera. By today’s standards these are postage-stamp resolution, but they provide a good comparison with the 2019 trip.

In 2001 I hopped a flight from California to Tokyo. The city was overwhelming as was the 16-hour flight. Upon landing I took the NEX from Narita Airport to Tokyo Station, changed trains to the JR Chuo Line, changed again at Shinjuku Station, and took the Saikyo Line up to Itabashi. I will never forget the momemt I stepped off the train and onto the street below the station – the subdued feeling of calmness and relative silence for a city this large.

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Overflying the Chiba peninsula into Narita, Summer 2001.

I headed straight to the hotel – APA Itabashi. I was amazed at the cleanliness + quality of both the city + hotel.

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Original JR Itabashi Station – where I first stepped onto the street in Japan for the first time, now replaced.

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City center square – just across from the station. This area and the station have been renovated in 2019 for the 2020 Summer Games. Note this view for later.

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APA Hotel just to the west of the station. There is a small pedestrian tunnel on the right which leads to the other city square up to the north of the station.

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Just to the east of APA Hotel. The small police box or Koban is the small white bldg. on the right. The small brown bldg. on the left has been torn down and replaced with a big new remodelled station in 2019. People in Japan don’t steal bikes and amazingly, all of these parked bikes were unlocked. Note this view for later below.

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The Koban from the front. The old station is just to the right, and the city square is just behind the camera. APA Hotel is to the left.

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One block south of the hotel. The yellow + red sign is the Daily Yamazaki – a 7-11 type convenience store chain in Japan. In Japan these stores are known as Conbini.

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Diagonally from the Daily Yamazaki was this vending machine corner – still the same today.

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APA Itabashi hotel lobby with cafe in 2001. Still the same today.

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APA Itabashi room view in 2001 looking west. Today the small white apato bldg. has been torn down and replaced with a massive condo development which blocks nearly the entire view. The platform for JR Itabashi Station is just below, but the hotel has soundproof windows. Note this view for later, below.

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APA Itabashi room. The rooms are tiny, but quite good, and very clean. They even have a tiny desk. Note the old-style CRT-type TV from 2001. In all APAs in Japan, these have now been replaced with HDTV’s.

The 2019 Photos + Trip

So in 2019 I began to make plans to return to Japan for an extended tour. I immediately began to think of returning to Itabashi as my 1st stop – just for fun – to see if it had changed. So I booked the same hotel for 2 weeks. This time I played the flight smart and stayed overnight in the Pacific Northwest in the US – which cuts the flight time down from 16 hours to a mere 10 – and makes it much easier. If you live in Vancouver you can do the same – although flight time will be 12 instead of 10 hours. 10 hours is doable. 16 is murder.

Upon landing at Narita and staying over in a local hotel for 2 nights to adjust to the time change, I once again booked a NEX train and shot right into Tokyo. I had not been back in 18 years.

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Touching down at Narita, 2019.

Tokyo Station had changed and was now much more massive – by an order of several magnitudes. On top of that, all the train stations in Tokyo were being remodeled that fall in preparation for the 2020 Summer Games. I struggled my 3 bags through the station and its labyrinth tunnels to get the Chuo Line once again to Shinjuku.

Once in Shinjuku (whose station was also completely torn up), I bought a Suica prepaid IC card and headed for the Saikyo Line platform. After a few minutes’ wait, I boarded and rode the line back north – just as I had done 18 years earlier. Just as I had remembered, it was only a short hop.

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The train stopped at Itabashi, brakes squealing, the doors opened, and I once again stepped off onto the platform. Time rewound decades as I vividly recalled my first step into Japan nearly 20 years earlier.

To my amazement, with the exception of a large white bldg. to the east of the station, nothing had changed. Nothing. The station + platform were almost unchanged. The back of the hotel, which faces the station was as if I had never left. I saw the long oval windows of the hotel restaurant where I had eaten my first breakfast in Japan the day after arriving the first time in 2001. Memories of that trip came flooding back – the unique smell of Japan, the low quiet rumble of this city of 30 million people, the cleanliness, the sky, the trains.

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Return to Itabashi – as if by time machine – 18 years later.

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I headed to the stairs – which had been replaced by a new escalator. It was here I learned the stations were being remodeled for the Olympics. Inside, the station had completely changed. Modern marble walls, new restrooms, a new conbini inside the station which had not existed before.

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The newly remodeled JR Itabashi Station.

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The new Itabashi Station was finally completed in June 2020 – including a new row of shops on the right side.

South/East side of the new station. Entrance is on the left. Note the nice new pavement. In almost 20 years this is about the only thing that has changed in Itabashi.

I slapped my Suica card on the turnstile’s IC reader with a beep, and passed through. I went up the new exit ramp, around the corner of the new station, and onto the same street where I first set foot 18 years ago.

Nothing had changed.

The same small white police Koban, the same small town square + fountain, the shops + apartments, the same street.

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First step out of Itabashi Station in 2019 – except for the large new station bldg. on the left, nothing had changed. The same Koban is visible up on the right. The pedestrian tunnel entrance is visible on the left.

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The pedestrian tunnel leading to the north side of the station, bike parking, and the west city square.

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Itabashi city square today – just outside the station.

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Dental office directly across from the hotel. Except for a freshly painted railing, and new sidewalk pavement, nothing had changed.

I walked to the right 1 block and there was the hotel – exactly as I had left it a long time ago. The same dentist office right across the street, the same small Italian restaurant where I had first eaten pizza in Japan in 2001. The Daily Yamakazi conbini right across from it. Surely, I said to myself, the same vending machines can’t still be on the corner – where I had tasted my first Japanese soft drink – Pocari Sweat in 2001. I walked down the street – and there it was – the same vending machine corner. As if by time machine, I was back in Tokyo, after all this time, at the exact same spot I remembered from long ago. And everything was exactly the same.

With the exception of the new station bldg, Itabashi had been trapped in a time warp.

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I headed into the hotel on the right. Same bike parking lot, same sign, same street. Once again, memories came flooding back. The large brass frame on the front door’s circular sliding glass doors, floor tiles, and 200¥ coin lockers – all the same. I headed up the ramped lobby, past the small coffee bar I remembered, and to the front desk. Not one thing in the lobby had changed. Even the same painting on the stairs leading up to the restaurant.

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APA hotel today – even the bike parking fence is the same – in fact, it hasn’t even been painted.

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I checked in. The staff were polite as usual. I got my room key, and dragged my bags toward the elevator. Past the Hoshizaki Ice Engine I had used 18 years before.

Into the elevator.

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To my amazement, the hotel staff placed me in a room exactly 3 doors down from the very first room I had stayed in 18 years earlier. I didn’t request it – somehow it just turned out that way. Same floor, same wallpaper, same hotel – even the same side of the hall. Just 3 doors down.

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4th floor in the hotel.

Just for fun, I walked to the end of the hall and to the door of the room I had stayed in during 2001. I looked out the same fire escape window at the first skyline view I had ever had of Tokyo. I just stood for a minute thinking in silence – 18 years – amazed that I was even here again, in the same spot.

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My original room in 2001.

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Looking south towards Ikebukuro. The groaning city in the gathering dark.

I went back down the hall to my room, unlocked the door and stepped inside. Everything here too, was just as I remembered it – except the view was now blocked by a huge new condo development. I opened the window and looked out into the humid late summer air. That familiar smell – the smell of Japan. The station platform below was just as I left it too.

Back in Japan for the first time in 18 years.

What a thrill.

In Part 2 I describe more about the town, the other side of the station, and things to do + see. Enjoy!

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©2019-2020 tenmintokyo.com

LINKS

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itabashi

https://www.gotokyo.org/en/destinations/northern-tokyo/itabashi/

https://www.city.toshima.lg.jp/index.html

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g298184-i861-k13068457-Haneda_Airport_to_Itabashi_Station-Tokyo_Tokyo_Prefecture_Kanto.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itabashi_Station

https://wikivisually.com/wiki/Itabashi_Station

https://memim.com/itabashi-station.html

https://www.wikizero.com/en/Itabashi_Station

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shin-itabashi_Station

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimo-Itabashi_Station

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naka-Itabashi_Station

Tobu Kami-Itabashi Station

Restaurants near Itabashi Station

Things to Do near Itabashi Station

https://ariyabar.com/

APA Hotel Itabashi-Ekimae

Hotels near Itabashi on Agoda

https://ariyaroom.com/takinogawa/indexenglish.html

https://www.jrailpass.com/blog/using-japanese-ic-cards

https://www.jreast.co.jp/e/pass/suica.html

https://www.thejapanguy.com/using-your-suica-card-and-pasmo-card/

https://www.kintetsu.co.jp/foreign/english/about/howto/howto.html

https://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2013/04/01/national/railways-get-jump-on-solving-ic-card-dexterity-barrier

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.mediavrog.ic_card_expensetracker&hl=en

https://www.kingjim.co.jp/news/release/detail/_id_15442/

https://japan-magazine.jnto.go.jp/en/trivia_201103_insight.html

https://timelapsetokyo.com/2016/04/18/accelerated-ticket-gate-3-million-people-use-in-a-day/

Additional Photos

My original Apple QuickTake 200 camera from 2000. A ghost from the past.

Original west side of Itabashi Station – now completely replaced by a new taller station bldg.

Original east side entrance of Itabashi Station – now completely replaced.

VIDS

Main center square outside JR Itabashi Station, early fall.

Shopping street northwest of Itabashi center square.

JR Sakiyo Line train crossing, east of JR Itabashi Station.

JR Itabashi Station at night. JR Saikyo Line headed south to Ikebukuro.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8b3Vkww4N0

Akabane is 2 more stops to the north on the Saikyo Line.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukK1WQFhewg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WINVMXEYw8s