The quickest way to the Printing Museum is to get to Korakuen Station on the Marunouchi or Namboku Line, then head west a few blocks. There is another portal to Korakuen Station a bit further to the east around 35°42’30.21″ N 139°45’14.27″ E. This portal also services Kasuga Station on the Toei Mita and Odeo Lines. But it’s a bit more of a walk (but still under a mile).
If you’re looking for a nice cheap hotel nearby, there’s a nice Dormy Inn right across the street from Kasuga Station.
The museum has an incredible display of the history of printing in Japan, all kinds of books and parchments, and other exhibits. The displays are top-notch and the entire place has an air of excellence about it.
Sugamo is a small area in Tokyo north of Tokyo Dome City and south of Itabashi on Rt. 17 (Hakusan Dori). It’s not a large area but still worth a look. The main attraction is Rikugien Gardens 2 blocks to the east (discussed below).
Central Sugamo facing northeast. The station + atré complex is the white square bldg. right of center. Rt. 17 or Hakusan Dori runs north-south. A Beck’s Coffee is the tiny black bldg. next to the small concrete park in the lower right. The main outdoor covered shopping area is just off 17 in the upper center left. Just north of that on the east side of the street is the APA Hotel Sugamo Ekimae (Ekimae means “at the station”). Continuing to head north on 17 for a few miles leads to the small charming micro-town of Itabashi, which just renovated its train station in 2020.There are various other shops + food palaces around the station as shown above.
Facing south on Hakusan Dori just south of the station. TDC is straight ahead.
Sugamo is not a huge area. But there’s still a fair amount to do. The atré complex over the station is worth a look, and Sugamo Jizo-Dori Shopping Street (discussed next) is a must-see. You can also stroll the outdoor shops along the streets on both sides for miles. Rikugien Gardens (discusssed below) a few miles to the east is a must-see. It’s one of the most well-known Japanese gardens in the world and in the spring + fall is spectacular. The town that Rikugien Gardens is in – Komagome – just to the northeast is also worth a quick look and isn’t too far.
Sugamo Jizo-Dori Shopping Street
Entrance to Sugamo Jizo-Dori Shopping Street which veers off to the left west of Hakusan Dori. The street is lined with charming shops, and if you follow it far enough north you’ll come to Itabashi.The entrance is just north of the APA Hotel on the leftaround 35°44’04.41″ N 139°44’12.70″ E.
Sugamo Jizo-Dori Shopping Street is a long narrow north-south street which parallels Hakusan Dori in Sugamo. The street is known as a hang-out spot for seniors, but it’s definitely worth a stop for everyone. The street has some very nice food shops with traditional Japanese foods of all kinds. If you keep going north until the end of Sugamo, you’ll come to the charming micro-town of Itabashi, which recently just built a brand new train station. Itabashi is just north of Ikebukuro and is a jumping off point for many other locations on the JR Saikyo Line such as Ikebukuro.
Sugamo Jizo-Dori Shopping Street with its charming shops facing north. Well worth a stroll.
Sugamo Jizo-Dori Shopping Street approaching Itabashi.
If you head south on Hakusan Dori from the station for a few blocks, there’s a side street around 35°43’52.63″ N 139°44’29.39″E heading east just after the MOS Burger on the left. At the end of this street about a mile down is world-famous Rikugien Gardens – one of the most beautiful Japanese gardens in the country. It’s a must see. Admission is 300-400¥ or so, but it’s worth it for a couple bucks. While you’re there you can stop and check out the town – Komagome – which has its own JR station. It’s a small unremarkable town, but worth a quick walk. There’s also a very large ancient temple there with spectacular architecture. It also has its own APA Hotel – APA Komagome. See our post on Komagome for more about the town. It’s worth a quick look.
The obvious choice in the area, as we mentioned, is APA Sugamo Ekimae 2 blocks north of the station. Clean, upscale, and relatively cheap at $70-$80/night in off-season, it’s the best bet in Sugamo. There are others around in the area too. Check agoda.com for more choices.
North to Itabashi
Only about a mile north of Sugamo is the small charming town of Itabashi. Several rail lines including JR and the Toei Subway stop there. The JR station is on the Saikyo Line. It’s only about a mile walk north on Hakusan Dori and is worth it if you have extra time. See our full multipart post on Itabashi for more info.
Hakusan Dori and the area around TDC actually have some nice bike lanes – if there are no delivery vehicles parked in them.
Cruising south on Hakusan Dori facing southwest at sunset.
Beck’s Coffee near the station. The Japanese word for coffee is coheé.
The covered shopping street just north of the station facing north. APA Sugamo Ekimae is just ahead.You can also hang a right here to explore some of the backstreets where a good 200¥ coin-locker is located.
The covered shopping street on the west side of Hakusan Dori. Note the Toei Subway entrance on the left.
This MOS Burger is just down Hakusan Dori on the east side. If you turn left just after this shop when heading south on Hakusan Dori, you’ll come to world-famous Rikugien Gardens on the right – and Komagome.
MOS Burger menu. You can actually eat fairly cheap in Japan – under 500¥ (around $5) for a good MOS Burger meal. The company prides itself on fresh ingredients. Our experiences at the chain are generally good.
They even have some fun desserts.
There is also this small guitar school just north of the gardens.
Heading north out of Sugamo on Hakusan Dori to Itabashi in late fall.
The huge temple north of Komagome – eerily silent near midnight.
This quaint little restaurant is superb – a must see if you are in Tokyo.
The menu is quite good – most are traditional dishes but heaped with all kinds of extra cheese. Prices are a bit on the high side – around $30-$40 per person, but well worth it. The quality is excellent.
Exit here (north/west exit), turn left out of the station, left again at the corner and head south.
You’ll pass several side streets – there’s a cheap 200¥ coin locker on one if you need one, and Cheese Meets Meat is on down a bit on your right.
You’ll pass this coin locker on your left.
Pass this side street.
From Tokyo Dome City
If you are coming from Tokyo Dome City (TDC), head out the south exit on the west side of the complex, cross the little bridge there, and head south on the street straight ahead. Cheese Meets Meat is down just 2 blocks to the south.
To get to TDC, take either the Marunouchi or Namboku Metro subway line, and head up into the TDC complex (the Metro station is across the street from TDC). Cross through the LaQua complex (towards the stadium), head to the right down the stairs beyond the stadium, through a small covered area where First Cabin is, across another small foot bridge, and down the stairs + cross the street. Make a dog-leg left down the street towards Cheese Meets Meat.
Cross through the LaQua area shown here (the other direction – this is facing north).
Go past Tokyo Dome Stadium to the left in this photo...
And down the stairs + through the small covered area on the right.
The covered area from the reverse angle. There’s a bowling alley and First Cabin.
Exit the covered area….
And head down this ramp.
Immediately on your right you’ll pass this Koban (police box).
There’s actually a quicker shortcut to Cheese Meets Meat from Suidobashi Station: if you exit the station from the east exit and loop around the long side of the station to the south, you’ll come to the trestle shown on the right above. If you turn hard left here, it will take you down a short diagonal side street which will end right across from Cheese Meets Meat. Don’t head down the tiny street straight ahead, but instead make the hard left down the larger side street shown on the left above. This photo is looking southwest.
JR Suidobashi Station east exit – take the north/west exit instead. Take the east exit here + turn right at the street shown ahead for the shortcut mentioned above.Note the nice brand new renovation paint job on the overhead tracks.